Ubud is not renowned as a hot place for the wilder kind of
nightlife. Try Kuta or Seminyak for that. The community treasures
its traditional atmosphere, and a civilized and safe atmosphere on
the streets. Consequently, there are no discos or full-fledged
night clubs. There's plenty of acoustic music, though. Dynamic
conversation is the number one form of entertainment, so don't be
shy. Join in. Try one of the following spots, or cruise them all
to see where you find a crown that suits your mood.
Bebek Bengil Jalan Hanoman, Padang Tegal. This long-time
favourite restaurant in Jalan Hanoman, Padang Tegal (South Ubud), is
open pretty late, and there's regular crowd of locals and their
friends who "hold court" here. Some even sleep there and get their
mail there. It's a key centre for the latest news and gossip,
especially late at night in the back. The food is very good, drink
prices are fair, and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly. The
ownership and management team consists of Agung Raka, Mande and
Ngurah, three extremely personable Balinese gentlemen who speak
excellent English. You'll find them and their friends (local and
foreign) excellent sources of information on the going-on in Ubud.
The restaurant has its own football team made up of assorted friends
and regulars. "Bebek United" plays locally, just for fun, and after
the game the atmosphere at the restaurant (win or lose), is
particularly lively. Solo and duet bamboo gamelan music in the
afternoon and evenings, featuring Dewa, a well-known local gamelan
teacher, who will give you private lessons at Bebek if you ask him.
Café Tutmak Jalan Dewi Sita. A hip café, created
by Ketut and his wife, who hails from Berkeley, California. The best
coffee in the known universe. A key hangout for creative expats and
locals. Live acoustic music several nights a month (frequently
unannounced), often featuring Ketut Yuliars, the owner of Ganesha
Bookshop, who plays mandolin and sitar, joined by talented locals on
flute, guitar, drums and other instruments. Distinguished musicians
visiting Ubud are encouraged to collaborate with "Yuli" and his
friends. We have seen extraordinary violinists from Europe and
Japan, Flamenco guitarists, harpists and even didgeridoo players
here. If there's no live music, the conversation, coffee,
backgammon, scrabble, drinks and desserts are more than enough to
keep you happy here for hours. The evening chef, Guskok, is a
charming fellow. With just a little coaxing he will share with you
his extensive knowledge of cultural traditions and the pace of
change in the Ubud area. Open until about 11 or 11:30.
Ary's Warung Jalan Raya. A Chic, but relaxed
restaurant and bar with excellent recorded music and highly
aesthetic surroundings. Late dining until about midnight. Drinking
until 1. An excellent place for an intimate little dinner, or a
group party upstairs. You will see the most glamourous Ubudians here
in full regalia, but the atmosphere is not snobbish, and you needn't
get dressed up to feel comfortable.
Beggard's Bush Campuhan. This venerable
institution was founded by the illustrious Victor Mason, its
erstwhile publican, and one of Bali's most colourful living
characters. It flourished for years as the only true British Pub in
Bali, and the headquarters of the Bali Hash, the Bali Bird Walks,
and a whole passel of eccentric and fascinating regulars. Now, under
new ownership and management, "The Bush" is closed for renovation,
and sorely missed. Stay tuned for news of its re-opening.
Café ARMA Jalan Hanoman, Padang Tegal .
Pengosekan area. A rather elegant, large restaurant with live music
on Thursday nights from 7 to 9 o'clock, featuring Gus Tilem on blues
guitar. Sometimes called the "Ubud Millionaire's Club", it is
frequented at times by a sophisticated, but affable set of local
figures, including Agung Rai himself. The Ubud Mountain Bike Club (a
group of Balinese men who are some of the most distinguished members
of Ubud's 30-something generation), usually dines here on Thursdays,
too. The friendly and knowledgeable chef, Agung Putra Dalem, is
extremely talented, and produces fine Italian and Indonesian food
from newly built kitchens which boast a first-rate bakery and
authentic pizza ovens. Good wine. Great apple pie and breads. Super
place for a big party or a "last-night-in-Ubud" dinner.
Café Exiles Pengosekan Road, Pengosekan Village.
This is the place to be on Saturday night, and sometimes on
Wednesday, too. There's live music (blues, R&B, Funk) both nights.
The only place in Ubud that really jams. An egalitarian atmosphere
encourages lively discussions and debates, and energetic dancing,
with participants of all ages and nationalities. Audience/performer
distinctions blur, as locals and visitors get in on the act, doing
cameo vocal performances, or picking up an instrument to join in. A
solid local crowd is augmented by visiting expats from glamourous
enclaves in Seminyak and Sanur, plus a strong showing of Balinese
and Javanese patrons from the intellectual and artistic set, who
come up from Denpasar and elsewhere for the night.
Sai-Sai Bar Monkey Forest Road. This is the
number one hangout for young local and visitors alike. Live music
almost every night (pop or traditional bamboo gamelan). Big screen
TV, Movies. Pizzas made in a wood-fired oven. A "barbecue"
atmosphere in the back. Good, cold beers and a wild range of
cocktails. The owners are two brothers, Gung Nik and Gung Landung,
who both are extremely personable and charming. Gung Nik is a
fanatic when it comes to antique motorcycles, and Gung Landung is a
popular goalkeeper fo local football teams.
Putra Bar Monkey Forest Road. Live music "jam
sessions" Monday - Saturday, 9 - 11 p.m., with jazz and latin music
on Monday and Thursday, A favourite watering hole for locals and
visitors, with a relaxed, unpretentious ambience. It's nice to sit
at the streetside tables and watch the world go past. Gung Oka, who
manages the place is one of the friendliest guys in town, and he
speaks excellent English.
The Chedi In the Chedi Hotel, a few kilometres
north of Sayan Village. On Friday nights David Ades, an absolutely
outstanding saxophonist plays. You can have a really elegant dinner
here, where the presentation, the service and the wine list are all
truly superb.
Jazz Café Jalan Sukma 2, Tebesaya, in the East
part of Ubud, near the main cremation ground. Emphasis on blues and
jazz guitar. Agung Wiryawan, the owner, is a skilful guitarist
himself and has an extensive collection of recorded music. Happy
hour with discounted beer from 5 - 8. Live music some Tuesday and
Fridays from about 9 p.m., with local and visiting musicians, The
owner encourages talented musicians who happen to be in Ubud to make
cameo performances here during evening jam sessions. (Tel 976594).
Studio 22k Jalan Raya, Tebesaya. A tiny, elegant
little bar in from of Oka Kartini's bungalows. Dame Oka Katini and
her handsome sons hold court here, amid antique woodcarvings and
exotic gardens. They pour excellent cocktails, serve good wine, and
occasionally host little dinners for friends old and new. The music
system is excellent, and so are the sounds that emanate from it,
selected by Buana, Dame Oka's gregarious son, who also runs the
jewellery shop behind the bar, where he sells a bast collection of
original designs by himself and his eccentric European
collaborators.
Bali Buddha Café Across the lane from the main
post office. Celtic music on Thursdays from 6:00 to 7:00 p.m.,
followed by poetry readings.
Movies
Numerous cafes and bars show recently released movies on big screen
televisions, and there is no charge to watch. Casa Luna tends to
choose films of higher intellectual content, as well as quality
films for children and families (Tel - 976283). Times for some of
the locations are as follows: Casa Luna (Jalan Raya) 7:00 with a
second film following around 9:00. Sai-Sai Bar (Monkey Forest Road)
7:00 Putra Bar (Monkey Forest Road) 7:00 and 9:00 Bamboo Restaurant
(Jalan Dewi Sita) 9:00. Do Drop Inn ( Behind the Football Field)
8:00, Coconut Café (Jalan Suweta) 8:00, Café Yogyakarta (Monkey
Forest Road) 7:00.
Temple Ceremonies
The odalans or temple anniversaries in Ubud and the surrounding
area last well into the wee hours, with dance and music
performances, lontar readings, socializing, food and gambling.
Perhaps this could considered "nighlife". There's no alcohol, and
you must dress strictly adat and behave yourself, though. Check the
calendar of events within these pages for dates.
Banjar "Bars"
Different banjars in and around Ubud periodically hold "bars", at
their wantilans or bale banjars (village halls), usually to raise
funds for a temple restoration, a gamelan orchestra or some such
worthy cause. These all-out parties are the only occasion when a
discotheque is allowed in Ubud, and the music and dancing can get
very lively, and go very late at night. The most famous "bar" is on
New Year's Eve in the centre of Ubud, which generally lasts until at
least four in the morning. Others can be discovered by watching for
the large signs and decorations in front of the bale banjars which
herald such event. They sometimes last for several consecutive
nights. Foreigners are extremely welcome, and will have no shortage
of dance partners. |
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